The days roll on by.

The boys held a memorial service for their Dad and our mate Rosco. Darren and we flew to Adelaide on monday night last and stayed at Craig and Anges. Craig had the arvo off and we (Darren,Craig and us) drove to Goolwa for the "wake". It was a great day, much laughter and a tinge or two of sadness. Parso,Sue, Sean and Brett and Ilona all spoke, giving insight to their friendship with Rosco over the years. So annoying that it takes the occasion of a friends death to get together with so many other old friends.  Ross would certainly have enjoyed himself. Back to Craigs place after I was finally dragged out of the Goolwa golf club, with just enough time to clean up and meet Clive and Vicki for dinner at the Vic. (top of taps). Craig and Ange, Amy and hannah accompanied us also. Sarah was on a 4 wheel drive camping trip somewhere in northern Victoria. Not too late home as we have to rise at around 5.00am to catch the 7.00 am flight back to Ceduna. Darren and Bob both had to go straight to work. The next week was quite busy with Bob working (at the East West) and me housekeeping, gardening and 1 day of Lucas. Phew.

Dress in your  Sunday best, grab a small lamb and pose for tourists. Of course there is money involved but hey.

Everyones gotta eat.

Its all happening

Back from holidays just 3 weeks and the feet are yet to touch the ground. Sort of began again on Sat night with a barby and a chat about this years adventures of the travelling twelve. Early plans look like a night and part of the day at Peterborough, then off to Broken Hill and surrounds for a day or two. Sunday was a full day with a round trip of over 500 ks to the Iluka mine site at Jacinth/Ambrosia. Not a huge operation, but interesting enough with lunch and afternoon tea provided. Got back to Ceduna about 6.45 so it was a full and tiring day for us older folk. Monday was spent trying to make the garden at Seahorse Villa presentable and finish cleaning the house for guests on Tuesday. Tuesday was Melbourne cup day which meant lunch at the pub with a day full of prizes,sweeps and of course the Cup. Home for a rest about 3.30 and then to prepare some of the food for a family dinner at Tracy and Darrens. Mazzy bought her stir fry noodles, we took a potato bake and Tracy did the meatballs and snapper on a stick and chicken wings. And salad. We left about 10.30, absolutely bloated and tired, with an early start tomorrow. Wednesday was Bobs first day at a temp job at the East West motel with a 7.00am start. Because the car was booked in for a service today I had to also rise early to take her to work so I could later take the car in. Lunch and chores (booking a few days in Bali in March for a nephews wedding and gardening) filled in what was left of the day. And the week is only half way through. We managed these things but the news that our best mate, and best man at our wedding Ross Loader, finally gave in on Tuesday to the pancreatic cancer that had bedevilled him for nearly 3 years. We all new it was coming, but that doesnt help when it happens. We count ourselves lucky that we were able to have a lovely lunch with him and Ilona at Goolwa just 3 weeks ago.  So sad.

Back home.

Well thats the first week back home gone.Been pretty busy with herself out to at least one thing every day, like op shop, mind the local gallery, etc. and I had a board meeting on wed. and another on Thur, but 50% of participants didnt show. Lucas, (grandy no 11) came on Tuesday, only sitting him one day a week at the moment.
   Checked all the Sentinels while we were away for a letter I wrote before we left. It failed to get printed. A couple of people have told me that the letters to the editor may be vetted by some one before they are published. The latest omission certainly points that way. Surely not. I know local government is all powerful, but even they are not above criticism. Are they?
    Some one snuck daylight saving in on me while we were away. Took a couple of days to work out what the time actually was. I notice Sylvy Dolphin from Lock having her five cents worth again on the perils of daylight saving. Come on Silvy, its been in about thirty years now. Its time you built a bridge.
   Cricket season underway again with Horry, grandy no 5 I think, making it into the E.P. under 14 side. Good on you Horry.

Sydney to Adelaide

The transfer from Sydney International to domestic was painless enough and the 3 hour wait for our connecting flight to Adelaide went by quite quickly. Even the boarding passes for Qantas which were issued in Santiago worked OK. Arrived in Adelaide on time after completely missing Thursday and over 25 hours since we checked out of hotel in Santiago. Got to Craig and Anges, sat around for a bit, had a lovely dinner, meat and veggies, unheard of when dining out, crashed around 8.30 and slept for over 12 hours.  Feel better now. Traveling is certainly hard work for the not so young, but I guess someone has to do it. Had a great time, saw so much it is all a blur at the moment, will have to look at the piccies to remind us what we did. Great to be back in OZ.

Flight home pt 2

Arrived in Auckland and disembarked for around 2 hours.  Came time to re board and there is someone else in our seats. Excuse me hostie, we don't appear to have a seat. Hostie disappears with our tickets, leaving us standing around in a full plane like stale bottles of urine. Finally she returns, beckons us to follow and we head to the rear end of the plane where this poor bugger was moved for the second time so that we had a seat together. We had flown quite a bit with LAN on this trip but they certainly blotted their copy book on this leg, even to the point of overbooking the flight. It does seem though that if you spoke Spanish and smiled nicely at the hostie you could get you and your mates in the four seats in front of us, all together. Unfortunately, I'm a bit old for the smiling nicely and I don't speak Spanish. I almost forgot, more drama whilst boarding. For reasons unknown, it is quite OK to take bottled water on the plane in Sydney and Auckland, but not in Santiago, where we were relieved of our two unopened bottles of water.  bastards! Anyway we arrived in Sydney, safe and reasonably well.

The flight home. Santiago

Our guide picked us up on time and off we went to the airport. A dream run on the freeway and straight to the check in counter. The friendly smiling check in chick, handed Bob our boarding passes. She noticed that despite requesting our seats some four months ago we were given one seat in the middle of four row 21 and the other in the middle of four, row 15. We asked for two together and the check in chick replied, its a full plane, no can do. We said how can this be, we are one of the first people to check in. She shrugged, embarrassed because she probably hoped we would not have noticed the seating until we were gone, at which point we asked to see the supervisor, who said to ask at the gate when boarding. Its called duck shoving, and nobody wanted to know. Finally a young lady at the gate actually did something and managed to get us two seats together but in the middle of four. Although we had to climb over people to get out we were at least together for the  12 and a half hour flight to Auckland. As it turned out it was a reasonable flight and passed relatively quickly for 50% of us. But wait theres more.

La Paz to Santiago again

Fortunately we were now domestic passengers and we exited the terminal quickly where we found our escort waiting for us. A twenty minute drive on a great freeway brought us to our hotel Atton el Bosque where we had previously stayed but this time on the 17th floor with wonderful views of snow capped mountains and the city of Santiago. As we were pretty exhausted after the time in the higher alltitudes we had a long lie in and a late breakfast. So we didn't stay in the hotel room all day we ventured out and took a subway ride to the end of the line, walked one stop through suburbia and came back again. Our pickup tonight is at 8.40 for our 11.50 flight to Sydney via Auckland.

La Paz to Santiago

Picked up at  9.30am for the 2000 km trip to Santiago and the end of our holiday. Our itinerary said a six hour trip but we thought they must have made a mistake. Boy! were we wrong. We found out when booking in that there were two stops and after waiting for 2 hours found out the flight was delayed for another hour and a half.  Thirty minutes into the flight we landed at Arika, a town in northern Chile. As we had now left Bolivia we were now in Chile. We had to disembark, go through Immigration and then collect our luggage and go through customs. The luggage was then immediately placed back on the carousel and loaded back on the plane.  This all took almost an hour.  We then boarded the plane again and another 30 mins later we landed at  Equique, another town in the middle of the Atacama Desert. This time we got to stay on the plane while they re-fuelled, seat belts undone ( just in case) for thirty minutes to off load and board passengers. Finally we took off again for the 2 hour flight to Santiago where lunch was served at 4.00pm. Arrived about 7.45pm after leaving our hotel room in La Paz at 9.30am.....cont.

La Paz Bolivia

Dined out with Geoff and Vicki, two Australians from Newcastle who we first met at Galapagos and have re met at almost every city even though on separate itinerary's.
The next day we had a short city tour of La Paz, which is rather an incredible city down in a valley with a satellite city called Alto at the top of the hill where it is colder and windier where the poorer people live comparative squalor. The homes are invariably built of home made adobe bricks,no colour, extremely busy and not my cup of tea. Dined out on the rooftop again, this time with Noelene from Melbourne, another one we re met several time along the way. Nice relaxing 9.30 start tomorrow for our trip to Santiago.  (If only we had known what was in store)

Lak Titicaca and Bolivia

We were a little misled today as our itinerary said a full days lake crossing when in fact it began with a two hour bus trip during which we changed buses and went through Peruvian and Bolivian customs and immigration. This was fairly painless though comical as there was a ceremony going on at the border so we had to skirt the participants to make our way on foot to the Bolivian border control.The bus then continued on to Copacabana (not the real one) where we boarded a large catamaran for Island of the Sun on Lake Titicaca. A two hour tour of Sun island, which included 203 steps up. We saw the fountain of youth, it didn't work but, a display in an under ground gallery and right at the top, for a small fee there was an old man who conducted a ceremony which called on the spirits of the earth to bless us. Back down the steps to a smaller catamaran on which we were served lunch as we headed toward La Paz. The cat landed at an unremembered wharf and we continued our journey to La Paz in yet another bus. Arrived in La Paz about 7.30 at The Presidente 5 star hotel,14 floor, great.

Puno and Lake Titicaca

Pick up time today 9.30, a much more civilised time. We are going on a trip to Uros island, one of the floating islands on Lake Titicaca. As it happens,our guide lives on one of the islands and we meet his mother and father during our visit. We are shown the rooms in which they live and sleep and since the recent introduction of a small solar panel on a pole they now have enough power to run a small TV and a few lights. This has also resulted in less fires, a constant danger. They even manage to grow a few veggies etc in the decomposing reeds. We are then rowed (1oar at the back) to another island on a reed built boat where we discover that todays reed boat has up to 1200 plastic drink bottles encased in the reeds. Thats progress I guess. Then onto the power boat and back to the mainland. Had dinner at a Lima pedestrian street restaurant with Nancy and Louanne, from Texas, whom we first met on the boat at Galapagos and have met several times since. And so to bed.

Andean Explorer and Puno.

------of open ground should not be used, just because a train comes through from time to time. The train driver is constantly blowing the horn,generally to no avail, but the stalls set up on the track on a tarp are casually removed to let the train pass. I was told that some even leave them there for the train to straddle. The semi permanent stalls on either side sell almost everthing, one in particular having more nuts and bolts than I have ever seen. Car parts, hardware, TVs', electronic goods and electrical equipment to name a few, in semi permanent stalls which all but touch the train as it crawls past. WOW. By the time we reached Puno about an hour later it was getting dark and we were pretty much ready to get off. At the station when all others had gone, there was just us and a Condor travel rep left but the name on his card was not ours. A quick phone call by him soon concluded thet he had the wrong name written down and that in fact it was us he was to pick up. We were deposited at the Casa Andina Puno Plaza hotel, one of three with the same name in Puno and after a brief disscussion on the size of our room(small) we were found one a little better.

Andean Explorer cont.

At the station there was the ubiquitous but small market selling local and not so local wares. The stop appears to be nothing more than an attempt to assist the economy of the local community. Then back on the train for a 3 course lunch as we continued on to Puno. The remainder of the journey was through quite harsh and dry farming communities on a plateau in the Andes but all above 3200 mts. The sheep,cattle,alpacas and llamas are all tethered and watched over all day,sun up to sun down, mostly by older woman or children between 5 to 8, before being taken home at dusk. A feature of the train is the last carriage of which one half consists of a glass enclosed lounge and and the other an observation car which is also glass enclosed but the last meter or so is open, with brass railing to prevent accidental egress. The dining cars and the observation car are all fully refurbished in the manner of the Pullman cars of the 1920s. About an hour before Puno we passed through the town of Juliaca at about  2 kph. This is brought about because the train line runs through the middle of the market, and the locals being very astute, can see no reason why a perfectly good piece----cont.

Andean Explorer. Cusco to Puno Fri 30th Sept

Up early and ready to be picked up by a guide, despite wake up call being overlooked. Looking forward to, albeit with some apprehension, a ten hour train trip on the Andean Explorer. Our pickup arrived around 7.00 am to take us to the station. On arrival and within minutes we were on the train,our luggage was taken care of and we were seated in two lounge chairs(bolted to the floor)and our own table. We remet several of our prior travelling companions and away we went,right on time at 8 oclock. For the first twenty minutes or so the train picked its way through some of the poorest and dirtiest housing areas of Cusco, a real eye opener. The river alonside the rail track was not so big but it was choked with litter, consisting mainly of plastic bags and plastic drink containers. Once we cleared the city it became more rural and the river alongside became a bigger, cleaner river, flowing in the opposite direction. This river was to stay with us to about the halfway and highest point of the trip, from where it emanated. At the highest point, La Raya,4321 mts we were allowed a ten minute break, to wander around.

Cusco Sept 29th

Morning off from any commitments so did little and tried to recover. Not quite up to it by one oclock when it was time for the afternoon half day city tour, so Bob went anyway. Should have gone out anyway as they are building a new Marriott right next door and they jackhammered from 7 in the morning to 7.30 at night on an adjoining wall. Bob enjoyed her half day tour with "now old friends"that we keep re-meeting along the way. Feeling much better by now so went out for a light meal, then an early night in readiness for tomorrows early start as the train from Cusco to Puno leaves at 8.00 am.

Aguas Caliente Wednesday sept 28

Today turned into a bit of a downer. We had most of the day off to just wander the town, which was fortunate as during the night my complete aliamentary system said, enough, time to empty out. After quite a large meal at lunch time and then to find out that dinner was included in the tarrif, 3 courses,two beers and a white wine proved too much for the altitude affected digestion system. Doctor came, no carbs,no alcohol and no fizzy drinks for two days. Managed to stay in our room until twelve, and spent the time waiting for the train at about four-ish in the public areas of the hotel. Train back to Ollentaytambo, driver waiting for us to take us to Urubamba to pick up our suitcase and then for the two hour ride of our life back to Cusco. The road to Cusco is also the road to Lima going the other way and it was very busy. Many vehicles dont seem to have tail lights but almost all have headlights, unfortunately only high beam. The road contains a mixture of trucks,buses,cars, 3 wheel motor bike taxis, people,donkeys,alpacas,dogs and kids. Our driver was pretty quick but never took chances and we arrived at our hotel about 7.45, glad to be there.

Machu Picchu pt 2

As it turned out it was about 35 minutes to the bridge,the path to which is part of the Inca trail,sanitised a little so the silly old tourists dont all fall off the edge. Every time we passed somebody they insisted on the inside edge of the trail. This type of tourist attraction would never even get off the ground in Australia with nary a handrail in sight and an almost sheer drop of 5 to 600 meters. Its called taking responsibility fo your own actions, something we are no longer allowed to practice in Oz. The bridge was less than spectacular, being several logs of timber about 3 feet wide spanning a gap of around 15 feet, with one side hard against a sheer stone cliff. I would point out here that the bridge is now blocked off to stop the odd silly tourist from commiting almost certain Hari Kari. The drop on the other side is about 400     meters straight down. Once again no handrail for the obviously sure footed Incas. The views from the path, although scary, were specky to say the least. We were glad we made the EFFORT. Puff,puff. It was then back down again with a bit of a rush as the last bus left the site at 5.30, however we made it with time to spare.

Machu Picchu

We got off the bus to be met by the guide who took us through the gate and into the archiological site of Machu Pichu. Our first site of it was everything we have seen in pictures and then some. Simply breathtaking.  Our guide followed the path of steps and by stopping every 30 or so steps upwards took time to tell us some of the history in the Incas and their world. This also gave us time to get our breath back before ascending once more.The incredible thing about it is that it was only 90 years from establishment until they abandoned it because of the threat of a Spanish invasion although there is no evidence that the spanish ever went there.  The jungle then reclaimed it until Hiram Bingham rediscovered it in 1911.
At the end of a 2 and a half hour guided tour is was back to the gate and a nice restaurant for lunch. After we started back up again to find the Inca bridge. This meant ascending to the "guard house" about twice as high as we went in the morning. Then, a sign pointing to Inca bridge but no distance on it. People returning assured us it was only about 20 minutes, more or less, so off we went.

Sacred Valley 27th Sept.

Regarding our trip to Misminay we had stopped taking our medication to prevent altitude sickness as we expected to be well below 3000 metres for the next few days but to our surprise Misminay was at nearly 4000 metres. Even so we seemed to handle it OK.Today we had an early pickup from the hotel to be taken to Ollentaytambo Railway Station for the train trip to Machu Pichu and who should be on the bus but our friends from Newcastle that we keep running into, Geoff and Vicky. They also sat next to us on the train. The journey was very picturesque travelling through the valley of the Andes following the river and we were served a nice snack on the way. The trip took 1 and a half hours to travel 43 miles so it wasn't a speedy trip but very enjoyable.  On arrival at Aguas Calientes ( base for MachuPichu) our bags were taken to our hotel and we boarded the bus for the 25 min journey up a narrow zigzag mountain road. OK if you don't look down. There was a fleet of 25 to 30 buses which  continuously shuttle people up and down the mountain. more to come....

Misminay continued

continued fromprevious blog.  After all the hard work which we took part we went back to the house for lunch. The room was spotlessly clean with a nice table with cloth and benches.The meal consisted of a plate of lima beans and corn as an appetiser, then barley soup, followed by a stuffed tomato with quinoa and meat and after that a plate of potatoes and meat. Dessert was a red jelly. The only thing that wasn't strictly traditional. Everything was delicious but very filling. The afternoon session was textiles and how they dye the wool,spin and weave using a back strap loom. The colours are all gained from natural products and died in apot over a small fire outside.  Bob participated a bit and gave every one a good laugh when she couldn't do the spinning. At the end they did bring out items to sell and as we'd had such agreat day we were happy to purchase a few things. Their warmth and hospitality were amazing and it was hard to say goodbye.  They were very interested in some photos we had of Lucas and a couple of the other grandies but unfortunately I left our big family photo back at the hotel.  A fantastic day and one of the highlights of our trip.

Misminay 26th sept

This morning we were picked up by our guide and driven about 1 hour to the Misminay Community. We had no idea what to expect other than another chance to be hassled into buying souveniers but boy were we surprised.  The drive there in itself was an adventure as we climbed to nearly 4000 metres. The people of the community are virtually self sufficient and live in small houses almost in the fields they grow their crops in. We were met from the car buy 6 or 7 men and women in their national costume singing and dancing with a very warm welcome.  Then we were taken into one of their homes for Mint Tea. Very refreshing.After that they took us to their farming area and demonstrated how they sow and harvest their crops as they have been doing for hundreds of years. They use donkeys to trample the stalks to get out the grain or beans or peas or whatever. Then they use a fork for winnowing.  They don't use any machinery and everything they grow they use in one way or another.  They are also very spiritual people and have a small ceremony every day to give thanks and pray for good crops.

Cusco 25th pm.

The bus driver who looked about fourteen seemed competant enough but loved overtaking sometimes in the wrong place.   But we arrived in Pisac in one piece to spend 1 and a half hours in the local and tourist markets.  As we weren't interested in shopping it was a bit of a waste of time however we did buy the bag we needed for Machu Pichu.  Lunch followed at Yucay at a very nice restaurant called Sonesta Posadas Del Inca.  Very good food and a great variety as a buffet obviously set up to cater to tourists on bus trips.  After lunch followed another half hour in the bus through Urubamba (our hotel site) onto Ollantaytambo to visit the Inca ruins.   We climbed 200 to 300 feet (puff puff) to the top and a significant temple. We marvelled at the construction of the huge stones without any morter and fit together perfectly.  During the Spanish invasion the Incas flooded the area below the mountain and it has only recently been excavated.  Back to our hotal in Urubamba, the Hotel Boutique san Agustin Monesterio de la Recolleta of which we were pleasantly surprised.More later

Cusco 24th Sept.am.

Arrived in Cusco around lunchtime. A fascinating town of narrow steep streets, cobbled and rough, buildings mostly old but some newish. Car drivers would be rendered incable of driving if their horns were disconnected.  In the daytime the main square is a popular place with a fountain and lawns and gardens but on Saturday night there was a cultural dance and music show which we got to see accompanied by a great fireworks display.  Unfortunately our hotel room at the Ruinas (3rd floor, no lift) was on avery busy street and the traffic noise continued all night resulting in Bob not getting much sleep. We were ready to go to Sacred Valley after condensing our luggage into one case when we were told we couldn't  take any suitcases  only a small bag each.  It was suggested we buy one at one of the many markets we would be visiting during our tour.  The transport turned out to be a twenty seat coaster type bus more suited to airport pickups not full'day tours.  But we set off regardless.

Lima 23rd Sept.

Arrived at our hotel in Lima around midnight after leaving our previous hotel in Quito at 5.30pm. The flight was only an hour and fifty minutes, the rest of the time was waiting, waiting,waiting.  Hotel Boulevard was very nice and after breakfast we had a city tour to the Park of Love, walked around the square and observed the timber balconies which had replaced the old stone ones lost in an earthquake.  Saw a couple of churches, the presidential palace and then climbed the bell tower in the monastery San Francisco. Lots of steps but good views from the top.  After lunch and a rest we ventured out on our own and again found the Park of Love where there was a talent show in progress. The main part of Lima is built overlooking the ocean 100 to 200 metres down what appears to be unstable conglomerate cliffs.  There is a section set aside for hang gliders to launch themselves from the top of the cliff.  Once again dinner and an early night for another early morning pickup for Cusco.

Quito sept 22nd

Miriam, our guide picked us up at 9.00 am for our city tour of Quito. Quito, although not a tourist town was certainly an interesting one. We visited Guapula and LaCompania churches, the San Fransisco Monastary. The walls of the old tunnels beneath the monastary have been converted to display artifacts and souveniers. Bobbie succumbed to buying some small ceramic wall plates. As we had left our money in the car we had to plead with the driver to come back after he had to negotiate one way traffic for twenty minutes. Poor sod. Following this we went to the El Panecillo Hill where a huge aluminium statue of the Virgin Mary looks out over the entire city. The streets were narrow cobbled stoned and extremely steep. Our next stop was the Middle of the  World, the equatorial monument. This consisted of diaramas of ancient Inca traditions.  Part of the experience is alledgedly being on the equator at 00 lattitude. Entertained with several dubious experiments all designed to prove we were standing exactly on the equator. Back to the hotel for a rest before our 5.30pm pickup for our evening flight to Lima

Galapagos to Quito Sept 21st

    6.30 wake up this morning for a 7 am brekky. groan! Then once more to the zodiacs dear friends and of to Seymore island for another 1.5 hour clamber over black rocks of an infinite variety of size, but all roundish.  On the plus side we were treated to a huge nesting colony of Frigate birds and their young, interspersed with breeding colonies of blue footed boobys, and a species of Albatros endemic to the Galapagos.  Then back to the Coral 1 and finish packing while the boat steamed to our drop off point on the island of Baltra, which hason it the airport.The crew checked everyone and their luggage in,leaving us only to board our hour and ahalf flight back to the mainland, first Guayaquil and then Quito. By the time we arrived back at our hotel it was getting on for dinner time, so after a short rest we dined and bedded fairly exhausted, aided by the altitude.

Galapagos 20th Sept late pm

    After the Post office event we lazed and walked along the beach until the crews from 3 boats played their twice weekly round robin soccer games on the island. Even our captain was a participant. They have a set of small goals permanently set up in a sandy clearing and play as if for sheep stations. No quarter given and no prisoners taken. Then it was back to the boat again, clean up for dinner, dine, a couple of drinks and to bed, so as to be ready for the early start.

Galapagos 20th Sept pm

After lunch and a short nap we once more boarded the zodiac and travelled to Champion Islet just off Floreana for deep water snorkelling.  Jumping into up to 30 plus feets of water was a bit daunting but the rewards were great. Thousands and thousands of fish of various types and colours. We swam along the island for around 500 metres and a seal would occasionally join our group.  Our guide free dived about 25 feet to dislodge a white tipped reef shark from under his ledge so we could view it. He also pointed out an octopus, a stonefish and many other creatures that we would have missed. We clambered back onto the zodiac in a most inelegant manner tired but exhilarated.  Back to the boat for hot chocolate and a shower to warm up while the Choral 1 steamed to Post Office Bay on Floreana.  We filled our postcards out to take ashore and posted them in the barrel. Also collected a couple for people in Adelaide. Historically used by sailors as a drop off and pickup point.  If there was a letter there to somewhere near their home they woukd take it and deliver. The custom is still in use today by tourists.

Galapagos 20th Sept.am

Cloudy morning again but not too cold. Boat anchored at Cormorant point on Floreana and we once again went for a wet landing. We stopped at a brakish lagoon in search of the elusive flamingoes, however they proved to be so elusive we didn't see them.  Further on we came accross a sandy beach where there were many small stingrays which came right up onto the beach in the waves and then flapped back in to the water on the outgoing waves. At the southern end of the beach many turtles lurking just off shore a few metres from the beach. We also abserved some turtle tracks from the sea to their nests in the "no go zone". Back to Cormorant Point Beach where Norm went snorkelling for a short time and we saw many seals in the water and frollicking on the beach and in the shallows. There is also asmall colony of penguins and we managed to see a couple.

Galapagus 19th Sept.

Woken at 7.00am for 7.30 breakfast  and 8.30 start to our activities.  Boarded the Zodiacs for the trip to Espanola ISland where after a dry landing we had a 3 hour hike to see Waved Albatross,Blue footed and Nazca Boobies, doves , gulls, hawks and herons in abundance even having to avoid the nests on the tracks some with tiny chicks as well.   Sea lions by the hundreds, the endemic Hood mocking bird and several types of reptiles including the coloured marine iguannas and the small Lava lizard. At the halfway point there is an impressive blowhole. By the time we returned to the landing point the zodiacs were waiting to take us back to the Choral 1 for a very nice lunch.  About 3.00 after a well earned rest we steamed to Gardner Bay on Espanola for a wet landing.  On landing we walked accross the island looking for the elusive flamingo but unfortunately it was so elusive we didn't see any.
Onto another secluded sandy beach in the very shallow water we saw many small stingrays and at the other end of the bay was a large compliment of turtles.  Back at Gardner Bay we donned our wetsuits for a great swim among many types of fish then back to the boat again.

Galapagos 18th Sept.

Flight to Galapagos was 40 mins to Guayaquil with the usual stop for refuelling and then another 1 hour 40 mins from there. Guides met us at airport in organised chaos and we transferred to buses then to a ferry and another bus for a trip accross Santa Cruz island from north to south to the Charles Darwin station which is a breeding station for endangered Galapagos tortoises. We were introduced to "Lonsome George" who is the last one of his particular species and unfortunately he appears to be barren. Looked around for souveniers and found an ATM the only one on the island in Atora before heading back to the ship for our lifeboat drill and then dinner.  Food was good and plentiful but not a lot of choice. Our cabin was on the lower deck and a bit cramped but adequate. Unfortunately it was very rough on the first night out and we both felt very queazy. Bob ended up going outside onto the deck and curled up there until about 2.00 am before it calmed down enough to goback to bed.

Quito 17th and 18th Sept.

Arrived quito after very long flight which included a one hour stop in Guayaquil when we had to stay on the plane while they refuelled. From the time we left Buenos Aries to Quito it took over 8 hours. Stept off the plane and wobbled a bit, took a few deep breaths due to the higher alltitude. 2800 metres. Met our driver and taken to hotel Mercure and after settling in went for a walk to stretch the legs and came accross a nice park, a huge church and an indigenous market. Then to dinner and early bed as very tired. Next day Miriam picked us up and took us up a very steep cobbled road to a lookout to view Quito on the way to the Chapel of Men. A gallery of paintings by yayansamin, South Americas Picasso. A very famous artist who had the dream to build this beautiful gallery but died before it was completed. And then to the Botanic Gardens where we found many plants which were familiar to us.  After lunch we ventured out again to find the Cultural Museum. Not only did we fail to find it we got caught in very heavy thunderstorm and got soaked while trying to get back to the hotel.  Dinner in hotel, early bed for 5.00am start to Glapagos.

Buenos Aries Thursday 16 th

          Today is a rest day, the first one we have had. We obviously did very little apart from walking a bit around the city, empanadas for lunch again and Bob went to the eye doctor. She was concerned about some irregularities in one eye and though she does have a problem the result put her mind at rest. So now her chest infection has all but cleared up and the eye concern is left in abeyance,  things are on the improve.  We did have the day off however the evening was a dinner and tango show. On the bus trip to the theatre we met 2 girls from Brisbane who were staying in our hotel and 2 blokes from Sweden and we all sat together at a round table. It made for a really good night. The dinner was excellent, 3 courses with a variety of choices and we settled for chicken for her and a thick, juicy, medium rare steak for him. Yum. The Tango show was also excellent, music, singing and very colourful dance. The only downside was, that there is only one way to do a tango, so it did get a bit repetative.  Then the bus trip back to our hotel around  midnight and pack ready for a 4 AM (yes 4am) start with a 7.10 flight to Quito.

Beunos Aries next day

       The "dining room" turned out to be an acceptable buffet brekky room, no cooked meals but plenty to eat. Sandra our guide picked us up for our city tour about ten and off we went. We saw the huge aliminium flower which opens and closes day and night, in United Nations square, a cemetery for the rich and famous, packed with mausoleums, one of which contained the remains of Eva Peron (Evita) . Once more did things the hard way(not our fault) as there was a protest in the city which closed some roads and made the traffic very heavy. HAd a coffee in a small cafe in the old La Bocca area which is packed with souvenirs and places to learn to tango.  We decided to walk back to our hotel only about 3 blocks! and our luck changed a little for the better. We found a very helpful young bloke in an optical shop who arranged an appointment next day for Bob with an opthalmologist just around the corner.  Then, right on the opposite corner was the Americana Empanada restaurant. In we went and we emerged a little later after a couple of beers and 4 empanadas, fully sated. Walked back to our hotel and had a rest. Out to dinner later to a recommended restaurant and as we had a day off next day we overindulged in everything. The Buenos Aries grill was wonderful, the staff treated us as locals, nothing was to much trouble. As soon as you sit down at your table there appears a basket of assorted breads and 3 kinds of dip. Beer and wine to accompany an atlantic salmon for her and a steel sashlik suspended from a steel hook enshrouded with a large quantity of chicken cubes for him. We were offered coffee (free) but declined, so they then bought two glasses ob bubbly to the table.We sauntered home detouring via the streets of Beunos Aries, picking up some water and nibbles for later. A great evening.

Buenos Aries

As stated previously the Wilton Palace hotel is not in the top ten. Or even the top 500 or so. On arrival we checked in, this time remembering to ask for a twin room, but forgetting to mention non smoking. Up to the tenth floor to1002 to a room overlooking the street but absolutely terrible smell of very stale tobacco. Told the valet this was not acceptable, we wanted non smoking. Then off down to 402 which was the same location but lower. This room smelled better but only because the room deodorant overpowered the smell of smoke. None the less we stayed put, only to find the traffic noise was amplified up the building which of course was not double glazed. Not having yet had dinner we sauntered down to the "dining room" to find out it is not a dining room but a room within which one can eat. They have no kitchen, but they ring a bloke "around the corner" who brings it to the hotel. Thats ok, odered meal about 10 something, had a beer or two and sometime a little before midnight we were still hungry,tired and unhappy.  Requested they tell the "bloke around the corner" to stick his food and we went back to our room for a packet of leftover airline food. Fortunately the traffic noise abated somewhat  and we managed a reasonable sleep till around 6.30.

Iguazzu Falls

After a good flight from Rio we were met by a most delightful young woman named Maria who was our guide for the two days and the driver Debora, also very nice. Our first view of the falls took our breath away and it just got better and better the closer we got.The Iguazzu river was in flood and there was 5 times as much water than usual.  The first part of our tour was on the Brazilian side of the falls with many viewing platforms. Some of them were so close that you get soaked by the spray.  Bob braved one of them right in the middle of the river and came back bedraggled but exhilerated.  We had a light lunch with the girls and then were taken to our very nice hotel for the night which was accross the border into Argentina. If only we could have stayed for a few days. I sure it would have been quieter than Buenos Aries. Our room was very comfortable with a kingsize bed, minibar and very comfortable. After a great dinner a good sleep and a nice breakfast Maria picked us up again to do the Argentinian side of the falls. This meant long lwalks up and down stairs and on iron and wooden walkways but the effort was so worth it. We had 5 hours of amazement as at every corner there was another wonderful view and photo opportunity. We were amazed at how close we could get to the water. The whole experieence was incredible and indescribable. You had to be there. We were pretty tired by the time we arrived in Beunos Aries and were very unimpressed with the Wilton Palace Hotel but more on that later.

Rio de Janeiro.. Sat 10 Sept

Up about 7.30 and down to brecky. Very adequate, and from there for a quick stroll along the promenade of the Copa Cabana beach.  Lots of people about even though fairly early. Lots of exposed skin also. Found a bank which took visa, so are now cashed up.unfortunately our day off was taken up with Bob having a chest infection and having to go to the docs for antibiotics so spent most of the day in room until Dinner and Samba show that night. The show was entertaining but repetetive and loud. Dinner was a shambles but good food with all sorts of meat carved from skewers at the table. Very late night at 1.00am for an early morning start on our full day tour to Sugar Loaf Mountain and Corcodova Hill. SLM was a great trip in two cable cars and the views were very impressive of Rio and surounding beaches,bays and countryside.  unfortunately by the time we had lunch  the top of Corcodova Hill was in cloud and even tho we were right at the base of the huge statue of Christ the Redeemeer was covered in mist and all we saw was a vague outline. To say we were disappointed was an understatement. Well you can,t do anything about the weather.Had a nice meal in the hotel again and an early night for our early morning trip to the airport. Pedro turned up early and of we went on our way to Iguazzu Falls.

Rio de Janeiro.. Sat 10 Sept

Flight from Santiago turned out ok after a bad start. When we went to check in their were only 2 seats left one in row 21 and one in 27. Bit of a bummer on a four hour flight. However just before takeoff the back row  which had all airline staff in it bcame empty as they all moved up to business class. i had already spoken to the fellow next to me and told him that my wife was up further so when the hostie came past he spoke to her in Swahili and asked if we might have the back seats together.  She agreed so we had 3 seats between 2 of us which is great. Straight after take off the pilot said we should all stay seated with belts on as would be crossing the Andes shortly. It got very rough for about 15 minutes or so and when the cloud cleared a little we were treated to a magnificent view of the Andes.The rest of the trio was good, meal served and arrived in Rio on time. Met by our driver with excellent english and aside from very busy traffic arrived at the Hotel Windsor Martinique about 7.00 pm. Bit of a dissappointment after the hotel in Santiago but quite ok and less than a hundred yards to the Copa Cabana beach. Unimpressed with the area outside at night we dined in our hotel and turned in about ten.

Santiago

Arrived in Santiago about 12.00midday the same day we left Sydney. Picked up and taken to hotel Atton el Bosque. very nice and comfortable.  Slept for a few hours then ventured out for dinner.  F ound the restaurant at the end of the street called Angus. Had a lovely meal and a couple of drinks.  Had a bit of a shock to find out it cost a hundred dollars. Bit of a miscalculation with the exchange rate. Got a few more hours sleep and woke very early (4.30) as our body clocks haven't adjusted yet.  Nice breakfast and then a city tour with the tour company. It's a huge city and we only saw a fraction of it including the main city square and the presidential palace, changing of the guard and a visit to a lookout on the top of a large hill in the centre of town. Next day was a half day tour to a quite famous winery { in Chile) which was interesting enough. The drive up and back was also of interest. Just wanted a snack for dinner tonight and as most of the meals are quite large we settled on a maccas and took it back to our room.
           Being picked up this morning about 9.30 , a reasonable time for the trip to the airport,   about 40 minutes.